We left Norfolk first thing and headed for Colonial Williamsburg. (I’ll spare the details of getting lost again. All because we chose to enter the place from a slightly different direction having gone to a supermarket to get lunch first.)
So Colonial Williamsburg. What to say? Really tricky to comment as it is greatly loved by many Americans (and rightly so as it has some beautiful buildings.) But I suppose coming from a country of many old buildings a collection of 18th century buildings (or reproduction 18th century buildings in some cases) meant for me there was a lack of wow factor.
That’s not to say that some of the buildings aren’t impressive – notably the Governor’s mansion and the Capitol. But there was a bit of “been there and done that” about it for me. Sorry for those who love it.
One aspect of visiting that frustrated and proved to be a joy in equal measure was the insistence of having to have a guided tour round a number of the buildings. Frustration because most tours take 30 minutes and in a tight day lots of 30 minutes add up. On the other hand when we did join a tour they were worth it. The guide showing us round George Wythe’s house was brilliant. (The guides tell the story of the house (and its occupants) through a certain day in history.) The day isn’t relevant really to our visit to Mr Wythe’s house. The guide emphasised how Mr. Wythe was a man of the enlightenment and there was a hint that some of his ideas were rather strange. The guide was really in character all the way through and made some wonderful witty remarks.
The guide had worked out we were British and afterwards (still in character) he asked where we were from as “I originally come from Gloucestershire.” After everyone else had left he spoke to us and said his grandfather had come from Gloucestershire (from the Forest of Dean no less.) So he knew where Wiltshire and Swindon were.
One noticeable absence from much of the tour is slavery. One or two black enactors appear throughout the day but there are not noticeable slaves. As an example, where we started the Mr. Wythe tour was in a small square building at the side of the house. I asked what it would be for. “This is Mr, Wythe’s second office – though sometime slaves stay here. Though Mr. Wythe has some strong views opposing slavery.” And that was it. Nothing on how the slaves might have lived. It is almost as if slavery is an embarrassment and should be hidden away.
As were were walking back to the car park, we passed an African American family. We said good afternoon and the gentleman said "That's a British accent if ever I heard one. Where you from? I'm half Welsh my mother comes from Cardiff. Tiger Bay." A small world. He hadn't been to see his relatives since 1994 and I told him he'd see some changes in Cardiff now especially near Tiger Bay.
Later in the afternoon we returned to Jamestown to look around the museum there. Very good giving a view of how the Native Americans, British and slaves started to interact.
The story of Jamestown is told chronologically starting with the Native Americans. It is told through displays and some films. One film (telling the story of the settlers setting sail for Virginia) was very good indeed. I liked how (apparently) they navigated. “We sail south until the butter goes soft and then turn right.” The spirit of those first settlers and their navigation is still here in the USA today whenever you try to find a road or tourist attraction!
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